Amidst the hustle, pedestrians fill the bustling pathways intersecting a sprawling market in Uganda’s capital. Many are searching for secondhand apparel, sifting through undergarments for nearly new pairs, or attempting to try on shoes despite the persistent jostling in the crowd.
For both affluent individuals and those with more modest means, Owino Market in downtown Kampala has served as a popular destination, offering reasonably priced yet well-crafted secondhand garments. This highlights the prevalent notion that Western fashion is considered superior to locally produced clothing.
A significant portion of these garments, once cast aside by Europeans and Americans, are subsequently transported to African nations through intermediaries. This thriving enterprise amounts to a multimillion-dollar industry, with approximately two-thirds of individuals in seven East African countries reported to have acquired at least some of their apparel from the secondhand clothing sector, as indicated by a 2017 study conducted by the U.S. Agency for International Development, the most recent examination providing such comprehensive insights.
Secondhand clothing is encountering growing resistance despite its popularity. President Yoweri Museveni, the semi-authoritarian leader of Uganda in power since 1986, announced in August the ban on imports of used clothing, citing concerns that the items are sourced “from the deceased.” Museveni commented, “When a white person dies, they gather their clothes and send them to Africa.
The president’s directive, which requires legal reinforcement such as an executive order, has yet to be implemented by trade authorities.
African governments are making efforts to halt shipments, arguing that the trade practice amounts to dumping and poses a threat to the expansion of local textile industries. The East African Community trade bloc, encompassing Burundi, Congo, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania, and Uganda, proposed the prohibition of used apparel imports back in 2016. However, member states have not implemented this suggestion uniformly, facing external pressure from Washington.
Ugandan traders are in a state of panic following the president’s directive, as the potential implementation of such a ban would have disastrous consequences. These traders sell secondhand clothes in numerous expansive open-air markets throughout the country, which boasts a population of 45 million. Additionally, these garments are sold at roadside stalls and even within malls, where they are sometimes presented as new despite being used.
The clothing is affordable and experiences further price reductions as traders create space for new deliveries: a pair of denim jeans can be purchased for 20 cents, while a cashmere scarf may cost even less.
At a popular Ugandan Green Shop, clothing vendor Glen Kalungi carefully curated a selection of products tailored to his clientele, browsing through vintage men’s trousers and women’s soft cotton tops.
“I’m an avid thrift shopper,” he explained. “I frequent these Green Shops to browse through their clothing selection, primarily due to their unbeatable prices in town.” Kalungi prefers visiting on clearance days, enabling him to purchase clothing for a fraction of a dollar, which he then resells at a profit.
According to retail manager Allan Zavuga, the chain, which has European stakeholders, introduces fresh clothing every fortnight across its three stores. Zavuga mentioned that certain products are procured from various suppliers in countries such as China and Germany.